Day 1

We set off, no expectations in mind but heads filled with many a past tale of the famous Otter Trail, one of South Africa’s gems – A 5 day hike along the Wild Coast from Storms River to Nature’s Valley.

Our kind hosts and old friend’s of Mike in Nature’s Valley dropped us just over the Western Cape border into the Eastern Cape’s Storms River Rest Camp where the start of the trail began.

Matthew, Mike and I were laden with 14kg + backpacks carrying everything from food for our 5 day trek to clothes for predicted storms and cooking utensils.

We took a look at the raging swells of the Wild Coast as we said our goodbyes to the real world and set off along a very rugged ocean hugging trail line.

The trail length on our first day was only 4,8km’s and although testy with negotiating the rocks and splashes from the waves it set the tone for the days that lay ahead.

We stumbled, quite literally, upon a dark and narrow cave and soon after a bit more scrambling we encountered a gorgeous waterfall with a very enticing rock pool. Sadly, we did not attempt a swim because there was a chill in the air and the anticipation in each of us to reach the rest of our group at the first cabin a few km’s further.

The first camp just appeared, almost as if magically out of nowhere, and we greeted our fellow hiking companions who had arrived just before us. A fascinating group of people who I shall refer to throughout this ‘blog’ by first name…

After setting up our bed in the quaint 6 sleeper cabin we explored the fairy like camp and marvelled at its beauty before joining the others at the braai where a fire was on the go for dinner. Of course there was plenty of meat going around on the first night!

Day 2 to 4

The next 2 days consisted of a mixture of rock clambering, winding mountain paths and water crossings in one form or the other. We were extremely lucky to spot a real Cape Clawless Otter who very kindly came right up close before deciding to run back giving us plenty of time for a photo opportunity.

We also spotted a green boomslang, baboons, bush buck and a few genet’s who have become quite tame throughout their time on the Otter Trail.

My highlight on Day 2 was seeing the gorgeous Blou Baai from a lookout point above. I feel slightly regretful that we did not venture down to the bay but when I think back to the really hard uphill trek it took us to get to the view point I do breathe out a small sigh of relief. There were a few who ventured down to the inviting waters for a little dip.

Each camp is such a welcome sight in the afternoon and we spent our time relaxing to the sounds of the roaring ocean, the insects buzzing, birds and each other’s chattering. Not to mention the crackle of the fire once the sun finally set!

My highlight on day 3 was the excitement of a real river crossing! We all knew, deep down (although some tried to deny it) that we would not be able to cross the famous Bloukrans River on day 4 due to the tides not being in our favor so when Matthew and I stumbled upon the Lottering and knew instantly that there was no other way round but to swim, we delighted ourselves
with packing our backpacks into their thick plastic emergency bags, took off our shoes and swapped them for ‘river crossing sandals’ and as the waves of the river subsided we waded in till it got to the point where we had to swim using our floating backpacks for support. What fun that was!

We were quite ahead of the group at that stage so by the time we reached camp we could see them all far in the distance contemplating the tides and whether they should risk the swim now or wait for the tides to go out. Thankfully they hesitated no more and about an hour later the rest of our group dribbled in (no pun intended), some soaked from head to toe and backpack, one having swam all the way to the camp! No injuries just a lot of drying out by the fire and slogs of Old Brown Sherry to warm the cockles.

That night the sea was so loud and rough we all thought our cabins would be washed away!
Much to our relief on the morning of Day 4, our cabins were still in the same place we left them and we all wondered what today, the longest of all days (13,8km), had in store for us…

As usual, Matthew and I were ahead of the group for the excitement could not keep us at bay. We were the first to encounter a river fed by the sea filled with slimy sea foam making for a very tricky crossing. We reluctantly rolled up our shorts, swapped our shoes and entered the murky and somewhat dangerous sea foam river bed. We waded through, slipping and sliding but trying for dear life
not to fall into the smelly muck, until eventually some of the others arrived on the scene.

It was the ladies who helped us cross using their hiking sticks to navigate. I spotted a tuft of grass sticking out at one point and new the ground was there… Thank heavens it was for it looked as if there was no way across at that point! We managed to slip our way over the rocks on the other side and regain our strength looking like swamp monsters out of a horror movie.

Thankfully everyone made it over and we later heard that the youngsters simply hopped over a couple of rocks with not so much as a toe in the foam… Not sure how we missed it!

By the time we got to Bloukrans after many more foamy adventures, we were quite exhausted and there was no way to cross the huge river safely. Thankfully a ranger was already waiting for us and within an hour, possibly two, we had all re-grouped and were driven to our hut for the last night feeling somewhat subdued at the thought that this beautiful trail was almost over.

Mike and some of the others had a great idea… They stopped for beers and wine on the way and we celebrated our last night in true South African style, around the fire but minus the meat…

Day 5

The last camp was definitely my favourite because the beach was covered in beautiful soft stones. When the morning finally arrived I didn’t want to leave. We packed slowly and said our farewell to the Otter as we embarked on our final 6,8km stretch.
It was a lovely last walk high up on the ridge overlooking the ragged coastline showing us exactly where we had spent the last few days. It was incredible to see because, come to think of it, no one else will see it unless they hike the Otter Trail. We were some of the lucky few ;-)

After passing through some beautiful fynbos filled hills we arrived on Nature’s Valley Beach filled with so much appreciation for the journey achieved.

The pristine beach welcomed us and we slowly, slowly walked the final stretch to the only pub in Nature’s Valley.
Said our goodbyes to our fun fellow hikers over a couple of beers and a great meal!

What a wonderful way to spend 5 days…